France: Exploring the Islands of Brittany

When we think of islands, Brittany may not be the first region to come to mind!  But with a dizzying number of islands that beckon to be explored (nearly 800), there are a few that merit a detour!  Each has its personality and offers something a bit different. 

While the crown jewel is the largest island, aptly named Belle Ile, I have chosen to feature three that are a bit more ‘sauvage’ to discover.  On y va? Let’s go!

1. Ile d’Ouessant – Ile d’Ouessant

As we walk to the port in Le Conquet, it starts to rain.  For a moment we seek shelter under an overhang, then realize the rain is not letting up, and we hustle to board.

The boat ride to Ouessant lasts a bit over an hour, and the rain is relentless.

It seems a cruel joke that after so many times dispelling the myth that “it always rains en Bretagne,” I am now bracing for a day without shelter on the most westerly island of Brittany, known for its savage landscapes. Somehow the rain creates a bond between strangers, and we are all smiling and laughing despite ourselves. When we reach the island, the rain lightens, and by the time we have secured our electric bikes, it is all but a distant memory.

The passing storm clouds add to the feeling of mystery as we set off to explore this rugged island that is 8 kilometers long and 4 kilometers wide. With the wind in my face and the bike soaring down a seemingly deserted road, I feel alive and free.

A black and white striped lighthouse comes into view. Créach lighthouse becomes more and more impressive as we draw near, and I learned that it is the highest and most powerful lighthouse in the world. I stand near its base in absolute awe, knowing my camera will not capture its magnitude and beauty. We pass grazing sheep, and tidy cottages adorned with blue shutters and purple hydrangeas. Finally, we stopped to picnic beside gigantic boulders and the remains of old stone buildings.

Strangely I feel both insignificant and a strong connection at the same time.

The island leaves a lasting impression, and I know I will return one day.

A spectacular sunset fades in the distance as the boat deposits us back in the charming town of Le Conquet.  We stroll the cobblestone streets to seek out Louise de Bretagne, the best crêperie in the area.  It is packed, and conversation flows as freely as the cidre.

Owner Raymonde has created an artisan crêperie with quality ingredients and gourmet flavors that surprise and delight.  A witty and charming hostess she stops at each table to share stories with patrons.  She knows my Breton friends well. When she finds out I’m American, she offers to hire me so I can practice my French, and enjoy limitless crêpes. I admit, I’m tempted. It is the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Le Château du Taureau – Le Chateau du Taureau

I am a huge fan of the show Fort Boyard, so when I heard that there was an island fortress off the coast of La Rochelle, I couldn’t wait to go!

Built in the 1500s by residents of nearby Morlaix as protection from the English, the Château du Taureau was restored and extended by the French architect Vauban under the reign of King Louis XIV.  Since that time it has served as a protective fortress, a prison and even a holiday home and sailing school.  It fell into ruin in the 1980s but was restored once again by Daniel Lefèfre, Chief Architect for Historical Monuments.  It is now open for public guided visits.

The boat ride on the Bay of Morlaix alone is a treat, but advanced booking is a must.  For about 16-20 euros, you can leave from either Carantec or Plougasnou.

Preparation:  There are NO toilets on the island!  Once on the sea, you may encounter wind that is not perceptible on shore, so you will want to consider a light jacket or pullover, even in nice weather.  A hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes to walk the stone floors of the fortress are also advised.

Once on the island, you feel transported to another time.  You are isolated in this fortress where the large cold stones are all the comfort you have against anything Mother Nature cares to throw out to sea.  Fortunately, it is a beautiful day, and we can only imagine who walked these worn floors centuries before us. After a brief presentation, we roam each cell and vantage point before returning to our carefree life on the mainland.

En route to the Château, you will pass by a unique island featuring a lighthouse and a single home.  This is the lighthouse keeper’s cottage on Île Louët.  This charming cottage has been available to the public for overnight stays since 2013, thanks to running water and solar panels for electricity.  Providing a unique and unforgettable experience, you have to reserve well in advance!

3. Ile de Bréhat

The idyllic haven referred to as Ile de Bréhat is actually two islands, (connected by a Vauban bridge), that are part of an archipelago of beautiful pink granite.   A lush and peaceful retreat, there are no cars allowed, so it is a perfect place to walk or bike. A quick 15-minute ferry ride will whisk you to this oasis, where there are only some 400 permanent residents.

The island is 3.5 kilometers wide by 1.5 kilometers long and is easily explored in one day.  In the heart of summer this is a tourist hot spot, so expect some crowded pathways!

We arrive early in the day, and head straight for the The Verreries of Bréhat located in the old Vauban fort.  We are mesmerized by the work of the craftsmen who know just the right angle and pressure to form the molten glass to their vision.  This local glass factory was created in 1990 and is known for their exceptional glass door handles.  The gift shop offers a stunning array of luminous figurines and gifts, and it takes me some time to make my selections.

Securing our rental bikes, we head off to see the sites. It is a picture-perfect day, with billowy clouds that move swiftly, allowing ample sunshine. The narrow paths are shared by pedestrians and bikers, so the pace is slow, but it gives me more time to photograph the lovely stone cottages surrounded by plentiful flowers. We abandon our bikes to climb to La Chapelle Saint-Michel, located 33 meters above sea level, the highest site on the island.   We are rewarded with stunning views across the archipelago.

Afterwards, we bike to the main village, Le Bourg, located on the west side of the island, which has plenty of quaint shops and cafés.  We decide to buy some picnic items and head to the Birlot Windmill to enjoy our lunch.  This working flour mill operated until 1920 when flour was first imported from the mainland. We are not alone in finding it the perfect picnic spot.

The remainder of the day is spent leisurely strolling along this charming island, and pausing to watch crashing waves, I wonder at rock formations or admire the roaming cattle.  This little haven of Brittany is pure bliss.

Here you’ll discover more of the pleasures of Brittany.

Have you been to this part of France? Please share in the comments below.

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